To Learn Chinese Culture, Take a Walk

To Learn Chinese Culture, Take a Walk

Dec. 18, 2013 12:42 a.m. ET

Malcolm McKenzie, an educator who has run schools in the U.S., Wales and Botswana, moved to Beijing earlier this year to help open the new Keystone Academy. The South African native spoke to the Journal about an aborted journey to the South Pole, why he loves airports, and encountering elephants in the African jungle.

How often do you travel?

Since coming to Beijing in July, I’ve been to Colombia, Connecticut, and South Africa twice. In the last 18 months, I’ve been to South Africa and Botswana five or six times, to Colombia, New Zealand, China a number of times before moving here, Chile and Argentina—and an aborted attempt to get to the Antarctic.What happened?

It was a school trip. We had to turn around because our ship was damaged by a storm. A wave broke into the ship’s control room and broke the windows in the wheelhouse. It did take us back to Tierra del Fuego [off the southernmost tip of South America], where we spent four days, two of which were the warmest on record for the last 10 years.

Do you enjoy traveling?

I love airports. I love the feeling of transience, that you can just whip out a credit card when you see all those destinations on the scrolling boards and go anywhere.

Favorite airport?

I try to fly through Schipol in Amsterdam whenever I can. I like the Dutch character. It’s the only airport that I know with its own art gallery—the Rijksmuseum has a small room in the middle of the concourse.

Favorite airport-to-city trip?

Heathrow to Paddington station because it is very reliable and fast, and gets you right into the heart of London.

Best airline food?

Cathay Pacific. 0293.HK 0.00% It’s inventive, creative and usually light.

Favorite hotel?

I like small, quirky hotels. There’s a hotel in Washington, D.C., called the Tabard Inn. The rooms are all different and they’ve got zany, funky furniture. There’s also a wonderful hotel in west Wales called the Druidstone, an old Georgian house on a cliff top above one of the nicest beaches in Wales.

Best taxis?

London because the cabbies are so knowledgeable of the city.

Any other difficult travel stories?

Once I checked into JFK with an empty suitcase, and the immigration and customs people and baggage-check people couldn’t handle it. They thought I was some dangerous weirdo. I was moving from Wales to the U.S., my family was coming later. I’d come across with two suitcases full of clothes for a few meetings and was going back to pack up the house and returning in about a week.

Tips for living in Beijing?

Walk. My Chinese colleagues here think I’m completely crazy. [My wife] and I went to Tiananmen on a Sunday, and ended up walking all around Beijing—about 10 miles. Prospective parents ask me what I’ve done to become familiar with China and Chinese culture, and I’ve quoted that walk to them.

Tips for travel in Asia?

Patience is important. Be prepared to get stuck in traffic. Be flexible, don’t assume the ways of doing things you are used to are applied here and don’t assume they are better. And eat local. You experience the country and the culture through the food.

What are your impressions of education in China?

I think the perception in many parts of the West is that the Chinese education is mediocre, all the same and ideologically driven. Top-quality public education in China is remarkably good. Look at the recent test scores: Shanghai is at the top of the world.

How do you cope with jet lag?

I seldom get it. If it’s a long-haul flight, I will sleep usually three-quarters of that time. I always like to exercise before I get on the plane.

Most memorable travel experience?

Being chased by a herd of elephants in Botswana. I set up a bush camp for environmental education on the banks of the Limpopo River. I was showing a very proper school head from the U.K. around. We were driving and saw elephants. They moved off down to the river, so we got out of the vehicle and went to this huge baobab tree. My son was up in the tree and said, “Dad, I think the elephants are coming back.” I went up to have a look, and they were coming back. So I called down to the other two. They shot up and we sat on this platform for about 20 minutes. Then the British headmistress said to me, “I want my gals to experience the sense of danger I’ve just felt.”