A Fish With an International Reputation

A Fish With an International Reputation

By Grace Susetyo on 4:00 pm November 18, 2013.
One thing many people don’t realize Norway and Indonesia have in common is their ties to the sea. Both countries are proud of their seafood. Though perhaps Indonesia has more to learn from Norway in using seafood as a tool for worldwide culinary influence, diplomacy and economic cooperation. In order to promote Norwegian seafood and its cultural-economic agenda in Indonesia, the Royal Norwegian Embassy hosted a Norwegian Salmon Sushi Gathering and a Norwegian Seafood Dinner on Thursday.The Sushi Gathering was held in the ambassador’s residence to promote the consumption of fresh salmon and how the Norwegian export commodity has influenced Japanese cuisine over the past 28 years. According to the Norwegian Seafood Council, the usage of fresh Norwegian salmon in sushi and sashimi was a Norwegian invention from 1985. Before this, tuna used to be the prominent fish used in fresh Japanese cuisine.

“Norwegian salmon has a big influence on Japanese cuisine,” said executive chef Oyvind Naesheim. He mentioned that before, local wild salmon in Japanese cuisine had to be frozen or cooked to eliminate parasites. But since farmed Norwegian salmon was introduced, fresh salmon has become ubiquitous in Japanese cuisine due to the perception that it is safe to consume raw.

“When I eat, I try to look for simple flavors and elements that I can incorporate in different kinds of food,” said Naesheim, who currently heads a team of 23 chefs in the modern Japanese-Peruvian restaurant Nobu Intercontinental in Hong Kong since 2003. “Norwegian salmon can be incorporated in any kind of cuisine. I don’t think in terms that this is a Thai dish, or Indonesian dish, but the inspiration can come from anywhere.”

The French-trained Naesheim expressed his excitement about the upcoming Nobu restaurant in Manila and other Southeast Asian cities. He said he believes in the next 10 years, Norwegian salmon’s popularity in Southeast Asian emerging markets such as Indonesia and Malaysia could equal that in Japan.

“In Southeast Asia we already see a strong foothold in the market, for instance in Singapore,” said Christian Chramer, the Southeast Asia regional director of the Norwegian Seafood Council. “Countries like Indonesia and Malaysia are more upcoming. But the economy is growing and the focus on healthy food is growing. So in general we’re observing a growth of demand in Southeast Asia.”

The role of the Norwegian Seafood Council is to educate markets abroad about the health benefits and business prospects of Norwegian seafood. Chramer said salmon is an excellent source of Omega3 fats, protein, and vitamins that benefit brain development, eyesight, and the body’s ability to recover from injuries. That said, other sources have suggested limiting the consumption of farmed salmon to twice a week.

Chramer also observes a fast moving trend of Japanese food consumption among upper-middle class urbanites. He describes Japanese food as using many raw materials that allows the natural flavor of each ingredient to be savored.

In 2011, sushi became the number one takeaway product in Paris, surpassing pizza, Chramer said. With the rise of the affluent middle class in Indonesia and the ubiquity of Japanese restaurants in malls and major cities, Chramer said he sees the trend spreading to Indonesia within the next decade.

“Salmon says a lot of who Norwegians are,” said the Royal Norwegian Ambassador to Indonesia Stig Traavik. “We are close to the sea, but it also has a lot to do with technology. It has to do with freshness, the cold water, and also exports. Norway has always been a country that exports abroad. The salmon is a perfect example of what we are about.”

Seafood is currently Norway’s third largest export, after oil and gas, and minerals. But more than merely promoting a Norwegian commodity, the ambassador views the export of Norwegian salmon as a tool for diplomacy and cultural exchange.

“Nowadays, for most of us, Norwegian salmon and sushi are two words that sometimes almost mean the same. The culinary influence that you have seen in Japan is probably something you will see here as well,” said Traavik, adding that he hopes to see Norwegian salmon more commonly used in Indonesian cuisines such as rendang or bakso in the future.

Additionally, Norway is also a major exporter of other seafood such as cod, halibut, mackerel, herring and king crab. In order to showcase the wealth of Norway’s seafood products, the embassy hosted a dinner for 460 guests at the Shangri-La Ballroom.

The two tons of seafood imported from Norway were presented into a diverse menu of culinary creations drawing from international influences, such as seared salmon tataki in sweet miso and mustard, salmon tartar with caviar, breaded fish in tomato sauce, chili king crab and white wine mussels.

Celebrity chef Farah Quinn expressed her satisfaction with the dinner, and said she finds Norwegian seafood products such as salmon, scallops and king crab well suited for Indonesian cuisine.